You wouldn't know to look at it, but the three-wheeled blade transport system on the Titan weighs about the same as the motor that drives it. If the motor was installed on the back side of the saw, the lower wheel would constantly try to swivel back into your knees. If the motor was placed any closer to the platen, the blade transport system (holding the wheels) would constantly try to fall off to the left of whatever you rested the saw on.
Placing the motor out so far away from the platen gives the weight of the motor enough leverage to lift the left half of the saw up to equal the motor side, so everything balances precisely where the blade passes through the center of the platen; where you'll also find an opening of almost 3” providing an excellent view of your saw's exact position on the beam and its relation to your scribe line.
If you haven't started to cut yet and the blade is just laying up against the side of your beam you'll find that the saw can be made to stay right where it is by setting a pencil on the motor's switch box. The balance is that precise. You notice it most when you're pulling the saw through an intricate series of right angle turns using nothing more than the two little T-handles on the front of the platen. You'll have your nose right in there carving precision details within tolerances of less than a sixteenth inch. And then you still won't believe how easy it is. You'll have to do it again and again to prove it really happened that way.
And you'll be ROFLYAO when you hear experienced woodworkers talking about how they put wheels on their floor-standing 14”er to cut an arch. Tell them you'd be happy to cut those arches for them. Nobody is so busy they can't take a little time to do some custom millwork; you could make a decent second income of it. Most customers say the saw paid for itself the first week they used it. Most customers would prefer you didn't know how easy it is to make those cuts.
Demonstration of a Falberg saw cutting a 1/2” radius plug from
15”D (deep) Doug Fir timber
Note the blade wandering around IN FRONT of the thrust support; proving once again that tracking is what drives a bandsaw blade, not blade guides. Blade guides are for turning only. Did you see the plug drop out? It could only drop an inch before it landed on the lower blade guide. I had to cut the saw out the end of the timber to get the plug out. What other saw could cut a 1/2” radius turn in 16” of Douglas Fir so perfectly it drops out like that?
My youngest son, Amadeus, made this video of an ogee rafter tail cut showing how to carve 90* inside turns. Note the saw moving perpendicular to stay on the scribe line; watch closely and you can see the blade running outside the blade guides as he backs out of the corners.
The guys at Davis-Hawn Lumber in Dallas made this video to put on their website. It's better than any of our videos so I thought I'd put it here, too. Buy your lumber at, & get your corbels cut at Davis-Hawn, they know what they're doing.
Amadeus shot this while delivering a new saw to a new customer in Utah. The customer's designated operator was a little hesitant at first but soon caught on and leaned hard on it to make a perfect cut; his first. The new owner finished the last foot and smiled as the off-cut dropped.
Bandsaws that Produce a Polished
Finish like a Table Saw Cut
The biggest part of your learning curve to mastering the Titan isn't what you think; the saw handles like a pull toy, but unless you put the right blade on it you won't get the results you wanted. We can help with your blade choices because we spent months researching blades from every manufacturer before we finally found the magic ingredient for making those big timber cuts. It's in our book “Your Band Saw”.
- how blades work,
- how to avoid “blade drift”, and
- what causes blade deflection,
here for $19.95/E-book version.It's available at Amazon in printed form or
The easiest way is to just ask us what blades work best; but if you're into scholarly pursuits.................?